The case has a sapphire crystal, as you want to be able to see the 22k gold rotor.
A first look at the calibre 685, which looks very nice indeed.
The dirt on the dial cleaned up nice enough, but I have no idea how it got there! It looks like the stuff you find between the spring bars after years of wear, and definitely isn’t anything that has come out of the movement itself. The only explanation is that the watch has been opened up at one point, and the case back definitely shows signs of an opening prior to me opening it.
The movement taken out of the case.
With the rotor removed, you can see the wheel that transmits the rotor movement to the auto winder gears.
From there, it’s on to two reverser wheels, onto another 2 intermediate wheels, and finally to the ratchet wheel on top of the barrel.
This made my head explode a tiny little bit upon first looking onto it. The pinion on the left is driven by the gear train, so as the movement winds down, it turns the three wheels to the right of it, and finally the outer wheel of the satellite gears in the middle, and thus turning the power reserve indicator towards 0. The inner core of the satellite wheel is driven by the barrel arbor, so when the watch is wound, it turns, and, through the inner satellite wheel, will drive the wheels to the right of it, this turning the power reserve indication towards “wound”. Note that the wheel to the right of the inner satellite wheel has a clutch on it, so it can slip. You can also see the last wheel at the top right, with a heart-shaped cam, and a spring that presses onto the cam.
The date wheel driving the date ring.
The movement isn’t fully wound yet, so the amplitude is still a bit on the low side.
And voila, ready for testing. The power reserve hand goes from 55 hours when fully wound to the last red marker when fully wound down. During testing, the watch actually has 56 hours power reserve from fully wound.
The complete set of photos is here.