Another day, another Speedmaster project š
This one came over from Belgium, and there are two cases, an extra dial, a spare movement, and some small bits. Let’s turn this into a Speedy!
On first inspection, the case ring looks a bit chewed, and the movement isn’t in great condition. But we have a donor, so not to worry.
Neither the paint nor the luminous compound appear to be original, so a bit of love is needed here.
The original dial has seen better days, so we will use the donor dial our customer supplied.
The case ring has also seen better days, and we manage to get a NOS ring off eBay.
The pusher stem looks a bit hand-made, but I have an original Omega part in stock.
The original pusher stem.
Let’s use the donor movement, which looks a lot nicer. It’s also from a Speedmaster, and from the same series, so we will just swap the escape wheel cock to get the original serial number.
The donor movement does indeed look very good.
Nothing to complain about here. 
The bottom plate is also in good condition, with all the screws original. 
The yoke and yoke spring. 
Donor movement taken apart and parts cleaned. 
A new mainspring for the barrel. 
The balance jewels go in first. 
Then the gear train goes in.
The keyless works go in. 
After adjusting the beat error and beat rate, the movement performs very nicely indeed. 
Now I put the chronograph layer onto the base movement. 
The chronograph second and minute recorders work, and now the hour recorder will go in. 
The bottom plate with the hour recorder and hammer, but we still have to put in the brake, and the start/stop levers. 
Whilst the movement is ticking away happily, it’s time to turn our attention to the hands. They are stripped of the old paint, and ready for a new coat. 
A layer of diluted white enamel paint goes on. 
The trickiest bit is the luminous compound. I mix a batch of aged compound, using normal yellow Bergeon compound, and an array of artists’ pigments that I mix in. Now a blob of the compound is dried on a piece of watch paper, and a photo goes to the client for approval. In my book, I’ve hit it straight on the head, and my client agrees. 
The dial and hands are ready for the new compound. This is something that I do first thing in the morning, as a steady hand is needed. 
I am very happy with the dial indeed. 
And the hands look great, too. 
Dial and hands look great together. 
The choice of case is an easy one, as the top case has been polished to death. 
New pusher gaskets are fitted. 
And an original Omega crystal is fitted into the case. These will run out soon … 
What’s not to love? Well, for one thing, the central second recorder appears to be a bit loose, and it doesn’t reset to 0 properly. Upon close inspection, the tube of the hand is split, and will need replacing. 
I prepare a new pendant tube. 
Now I broach the hand ready for the new tube. 
The new tube is soldered on. 
And cut to size. 
Now the hand has to be partially repainted, as the soldering damaged the paint on the lower hand. 
The new case ring looks great. 
Finally, I can case the movement. 
I’m very happy with the outcome. A genuine, age-appropriate Speedmaster, with all original parts, and super luminous compound.
I know how the purists feel about replacing compound, but from a watchmaker’s point of view, old compound is a nightmare. It flakes off, lands in the movement and on the dial, and basically looks like a dog’s dinner. I like a watch that looks great, too, and I certainly wouldn’t wear anything on my wrist that had flaky old compound. That’s just my personal opinion, and others are of course welcome to wear on their wrist whatever they like.
Hi there, My dial has a tiny tiny scratch near the center hole,
what do you recommend to do?
I was thinking in paintin it slightly as the dial has texture i might blend it in.
What color would be the dial, matte black or slighly whiten black?
Great job !
Best regards, David
It’s matte black, but you might be better off leaving it as it is.
Great job. I have a 145.012 – 67 with a wrong case back 105.012-65.
Do you have by any chance a spare 145.012 – 67 caseback ?
Thanks in advance
Best regards
Humberto Rodrigues
Sorry, I’m afraid we don’t.
Hi Mate,
Just wondering how you solder the seconds hand tube? is it with a fine soldering iron or a gas flame?
Do you use liquid solder/flux or standard solder?
A small electronics soldering station, flux paste and a tiny tiny amount of standard electronics solder.
Brilliant work! I have an old Speedmaster that I would love you to restore. Would that be possible?
Thank you,
Gary
USA
Hi Gary,
Let’s start with one. Just fill in the booking form on our web site, and we will take it from there.
Best regards,
Christian
Where can I source some āpendant tubeā used for the sweep hand. Iād love to play around with restoring some odd ball second hands that have long tubes.
You can find the micro tubes on ebay.
I do want to get one of these one day. Fantastic work and I love the result.
I’m curious, if you don’t mind sharing, what gaskets you use for the pushers? I have a beat up old 145.022 (with service dial, hands and bezel so little originality to preserve), and I have a moral objection to replacing the whole pusher set up when new gaskets are all that is really necessary (I’m accustomed to tinkering with my Seikos and their cheap as chips to replace gaskets). Would you mind sharing the gasket dimensions and/or source?
I use Eufor gaskets, which are available at Cousinsuk.com
This Speedy takes Eurfor #10 gaskets.
Excellent. Thank you Christian. I’ve dropped a packet into my basket.
So technically you built a NOS watch with only the right serial number from the old one? I donĀ“t know what purists think of that…
What happens to the old watch – does it get repaired too or do you use it as resource for parts?
I bought some of the parts. Not to worried what purists think…
Well said.
I wouldn’t know what purists think but as the owner of the watch I can tell you what I think: I was very unhappy with the bad-condition Speedy and now I’m very happy with an excellent and period-correct Speedy!
Don’t forget that almost all Speedy’s from this era have an unknown history. Many could consist of exchanged parts and we’d only know if they’re not period-correct or if it was a very-honest-one-owner watch.
Well said.
I never tire of looking at your work Christian. As an engineer and tinkerer, I sometimes delude myself into thinking I should try to get involved in watchmaking. Pretty soon I realize I drink too much coffee and am basically impatient. I’m sure you’ll agree they are a bad combination for watchmaking.
Best I leave things to the professionals.
Yes, it’s tea only at the workshop. My first cup of coffee is after work;-)
Fabulous work! Thanks for the cool story and nice pics!
I own a 1967 Speedy too and mine was restored in similar way. I totally agree with you regarding change of compound !!!
Take care š
Wonderful job! Did you use an airbrush setup for the hands, or did you paint them with a small brush?
Thank you. I use a very small oiler.
Fascinating. Wonderful work on the dial and hands – you must have to be so patient. There cannot be many watchmakers in the UK doing work of this quality.
Is it rude to ask the final cost?
It’s all pretty much as per our price list. Painting the hands and re-luming the dial and hands was Ā£70.
Absolutly phantastic work! Congratulations!
It is so nice to see a genuine crafstman at work!
I’m very happy with the outcome too! I suggest you add one pic with it on the 1116/575 bracelet I sourced for it (I’ll mail it to you).
What kind of cleaning fluid do you use for the movement?
It’s looking like new!
We use Elma fluids.
Who’s We? š
Ah – I’m not the only one working here …