This is a watch you don’t see every day… From the heady days when the pin pallet escapement was still widely used. Not only in the British watch industry, but the Swiss were still at it as well. Not long ago, I did a 21 jewel pin pallet movement, a Starlon watch. This lovely Cordura has a 17 jewel pin pallet movement, made by Baumgartner, the 158 31/7. These were the days when some manufacturers claimed that the pin pallet escapement was superior to the Swiss lever… one of the reasons being that the pallet stones couldn’t get dislodged during servicing. A bit feeble as a reason for superiority I’d say, but a nice try 😉
Nice case and case back. The watch isn’t working, but I think it’s only dirt.
The dial is held in place by two screws.
The balance with balance cock.
Top plate with balance removed. Some of the wheels for the auto winder still in place.
Everything ready for the cleaning machine.
I start off by putting the balance jewels back in, having given the cap jewels a tiny drop of Moebius 9010.
The basic movement is back together, and ticking.
The wheels for the auto winder go back in place. The auto winder has a reversing wheel, so it works in both directions.
Auto winder assembly complete – bar the rotor.
Now I put the bottom plate back together.
And the dial and hands are back on.
This isn’t too bad for a pin pallet. I’ve corrected the beat error, and I will make a final adjustment before shipping.
Back in its case. You can see that the case is chrome plated, and some of the plating has come off.Great looking watch, and as elaborate as it gets for a pin pallet movement – day, date, auto winder, 17 jewels… My guess is that these Cordura watches will be well worth collecting!
Hi, I’ve just come across this article while looking for information on the BF158 movement. I’ve just got hold of a Sicura diver that looks terrific, with the same hands and the lume on the hands and dial look great.
this will come in really handy as, I am about to service the movement and this will help enormously. (I’m a hobbyist, not competition 🙂 )
Thanks, your site is a terrific font of information. I use you mainspring and lift angle references a lot already. This is a bonus
Thank you!
Can anyone tell me if the mainspring is loaded clockwise or counterclockwise? I’m new at this and I thought I was following the procedure for opening the barrel and taking a picture but it flew open as I was trying to open it. Fortunately I found the parts easily but I have no Idea what direction to reinstall the mainspring. Thanks for any help.
Look at the hook on the barrel arbor. It will tell you.
Hello!!!! Nice work!! i would ask, if someone could indicate me , how to remove the anti-shock spring in this movement.
Thanks a lot
You just turn the shock spring.
I’ve had one these watches for years. It was sitting in a box where I keep all my old watches and parts. I can’t remember where or when I got it but I always assumed it didn’t work. Recently I saw an article on it and pulled it out and realized it was an automatic and shook it and lo and behold it works great! I’ve ordered a new band and I am looking forward to wearing my “new” Swiss dive watch! I love vintage dive and military watches and I’m very excited about showing off my Cordura Sea Gulll!
I have a Totemi that looks identical to the Cardura sea gull ?
Hello thank you for posting it was great to see what the inside of my watch looks like. One question I have is how can you tell what year it was made, I have exactly the same watch. Thanks so much
I’m afraid you can’t tell.
My Dad bought mind in 1975 and it came submirsed in water, in a small plastic container. Sold in Toronto at the old Eaton’s department store. Just got it overhauled.
Hello,
I got one of these as a gift from my dad. and it is missing the weight for the movement, any ideas on how or where to get one, about 5 jewelry shops, and quite a few hours looking online and no results? I would really love to get it in working order since it was a gift and a great looking watch!
Your best bet is to try and find a watch with the same movement on eBay.
I have a spare one. Let me know here if you need it.
if you still need a weight …. i have a box of new old stock weights . i have about 200
Thanks, but this post is rather old…
If you still have spare parts (balance roller jewels, date corrector spring), struggling to repair my mvmt.
It is interesting that the barrel has hear teeth on both sides. Do those on the dial side rotate freely from the barrel to serve as a gear in the setting works?
All barrels do. The barrel itself transmits the power to the gear train, and the ratchet wheel is used to wind the mainspring.
In this one, the wheel on the back does not appear to be a rachet wheel; appears to be part of the setting train on the dial side.
Speaking of dial side, I am a struggling to reassemble the date jumping works. Anyone aware of a service manual or photo of the assembly??
Hi Christian, thank you so much for sharing your service step by step with us.
I have 1 question.
What was the positional variation after service, I just serviced mine and it runs pretty accurate dial up however when its crown down the rate and amplitude drops dramatically. Is that an issue with the pin lever watches or is it just mine?
Thanks alot Christian
If you have more than 20s positional variation, you might have an issue with your hairspring?
Hi, I have recently bought my Cordura, but it occured it has a missing regulator on the ballance wheel, so it gains about 20mins per hour. Then I bought a Buler with 158 31/7, but working on 25j – do you think it’ possible to use the whole ballance wheel to repair the Cordura? I really love this watch and would like to get it working again.
Thx!
You will have to try it out I am afraid.
I HAVE A CORDURA 17 JEWEL WATCH BUT THE SECOND HAND DOESNT HAVE RED ON IT IT HASIS THE SAME COLOR WITH THE HUR AND MINUTE HAND HAVE YOU EVER SEEN THIS?
Your keyboard is stuck 😉
Just purchased a Cordura at a flea market for $140 U.S. So far looks and runs great. Keeping fingers crossed.
Hi everyone,
I am trying to solve a mystery regarding my Cordura with Cal. BFG 158 31/7.
I have managed (with great skills) to destroy the hairspring and I was left with no choice but to buy a new one.
My basic assumption was that BFG 58, 158 and 1582 all use the same balance. The balance staff in my watch is 435 tall but the new balance ordered from CousinsUK comes with a 297 long balance (this is also the height according to http://www.balancestaffs.com) . The balance I bought comes with a finger instead of an impulse roller jewel but that’s maybe my mistake.
From the four balance configurations the have in CousinsUK, I am not sure which is the right one for me and does it come with 435 long staff and impulse roller.
Because of the original longer balance staff, the stud holder is also much longer than the stud holder in the balance I bought from CousinsUK.
Thanks for reading and any explanation you might offer.
Saul.
I have a swiss, how much are they worth,? I dont know what to do with it , its old.
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I have one off this watches, it runs on time. I have scored one on a garage sale it is in good condition the stele crome is OK.
I currently have 2 of the Cordura Seagulls , the first one I bought stopped working. The second hand works then stops. The second Cordura Seagull I Bought runs non stop but gains about 10 minutes every hour. I currently bought another and am awaiting shipment. I love the design of these watches and the unique movement. I will try to have someone repair them and hope the current one works great. Either way, these watches are a great timepiece and have a story to tell. I will probably continue or collect more.
Update: The Cordura has been back with me for around 5 months now and has kept superb time since then. This watch loves to tick, I can have it off my wrist and winder for a month and simply the action of taking off my watch stand and putting it on my wrist and its ticking away merrily! This is the only watch I own with a pin pallet movement but if this watch is anything to go on then I’m a fan.
Still looks great on the Bond nato but just at the moment I have it on a navy silicon strap which I think suits the watch very well! 🙂
http://i.imgur.com/liXQnAz.jpg
I just scored one of these running from my local thrift store. The only major thing wrong is that the crystal is cracked and needs to be replaced. Any idea where I might find one? Easy replacement I assume? Thanks!
It’s a standard crystal. Take it out, measure it, get a new one.
Hi
Now when you say it´s a standard crystal, then mabye you can tell me where to find it, because I cant !
I have tried Cousins and Esslinger.
best regards
Dannie
It’s a standard high-dome crystal. Both Esslinger and Cousins sell them.
That’s correct ..cousins and esslinger both have them, but they don’t recognize the cordura namebrand in a search. They both have them .I looked
What I also loved about this watch … everything is original, the lume, the red dot on the second hand, the dial, an nobody has mucked with it. The whole concept of going to town with a pin pallet in such a way is a fairly unique piece of history. How many of those will be around in 20 years time in such good condition?
Looks good – the NATO really suits it.
I have a soft spot for pin-pallets and am wearing one today – a Lectro 21. Not sure what the 21 means… certainly isn’t jewel count as I can only find one 🙂
Saw a seller on the bay had stuck this particular NATO on the Sea-Gull so pinched the idea off him! 🙂
Great work as always Christian many thanx!!