Service: Cordura Sea-Gull / Baumgartner 158

IMG_2221As rare as this watch is, we have already seen one quite a while ago – a Cordura Sea-Gull. I wanted to show you this one as it is in excellent condition, something you rarely find.

The movement is a very weird thing indeed. A pin-pallet with 17 jewels, automatic, with day and date display!

David from the USA sent this one in, and it’s his grandfather’s watch. He bought it new in the UK.IMG_2222

The chunky case is in very good condition.IMG_2224

Dial and hands are in super condition as well – all original.IMG_2226

The day and date disks on the bottom plate.IMG_2230

The day can be quick-set when reverse-turning the time. Forward, both day and date change at midnight.IMG_2231

The date change wheel.IMG_2232

The auto winder works in both directions!IMG_2241

The wheel train with the typical pin-pallet escape wheel.IMG_2256

All parts cleaned and ready for reassembly.IMG_2257

Let’s go to town on this one – epilame treatment all around!IMG_2262

The base movement is back together, and all the parts are properly lubricated. So let’s see what we can tickle our of this movement….IMG_2263

You can say that this is a high-end pin pallet movement! A little bit later, the amplitude settled at over 270 degrees, with a pretty straight beat rate line! I’d be happy to see this on any Swiss lever movement.IMG_2265

The bottom plate almost complete.IMG_2267

Now I put together the auto winder.IMG_2272

The watch is in almost pristine original condition, and there is only one way the value of it can go!

25 thoughts on “Service: Cordura Sea-Gull / Baumgartner 158

  1. Hi Christian,
    I have one of these that’s like new and I want to put it on the timegrapher. I see you’re using a lift angle of 52 above but I don’t see this movement in you lift angle chart. There’s a Baumgartner 1582 which you show has a LA of 45. So I guess this one is 52?

  2. I just ordered one that works well. I never realized a watch like this exsisted. most Dive watches I’ve had all look the same. I did even have a Rolex Submariner which made me the laughing stock of my diving community when they told me to lock it up somewhere. This Cordura Gull is the big work watch Ive always hoped for.

  3. I am looking for the second hand wheel parts and spring. Are they even available or fixable? I have 2 of the seagulls and both have the same problem.

  4. Even though I am in the states, I fancy the idea of having someone knowledgeable service my Cordura. What would the cost be to replace the crystal and perhaps polish the case as the movement seems to be functioning well.

      • Hi Chistian – great job, have saved your details for your future full service work services. As i have managed to obtain one of these great movements, not as pristine, but great all the same. Could i kindly ask how the stem is removed ? which screw? so that i can clean the case, kind regards Paul (in UK).

  5. Love it. Trying to buy one now but has it got anything to do with sicura/breathing factory? And what should I pay, ballpark from? To?.

  6. I have one that has never been worn. I bought it in 1975 and it came shipped in a container filled with water. I wish I could find this advertisement somewhere as the ad is what prompted me to buy it. I removed it from the water filled tube and just put it away with the original bill but It needs cleaning after 40 years as it runs and stops. I think I will buy one with a recently serviced movement and swap since I don’t want to get the case or bezel marked up in anyway from taking it in to a jeweler. I found another a few years back on Ebay that looks as perfect as mine, runs perfectly, but must have been restored as there are signs on the case where the tropic band attaches that it was electropolished and replated when compared to my original. My son has it in his collection and loves it!

  7. I do have one, that Christian serviced for me a year or so ago! 🙂
    Great watch, mine was the best condition one I’d seen until this one! 😉

  8. Christian,
    Thanks again for the great work! The watch arrived this afternoon and is already on my wrist. Aside from the sentimental value it obviously holds for me, I think it’s a great watch and certainly not one you do not see every day.

  9. I do like this style of watch, though I don’t actually own one… yet 😉

    It does look to be in great condition – testament to how well you need to seal a dive watch I suppose!

    Does the inner number ring move also? If not, shouldn’t it be set with 24 at the top?

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