As rare as this watch is, we have already seen one quite a while ago – a Cordura Sea-Gull. I wanted to show you this one as it is in excellent condition, something you rarely find.
The movement is a very weird thing indeed. A pin-pallet with 17 jewels, automatic, with day and date display!
David from the USA sent this one in, and it’s his grandfather’s watch. He bought it new in the UK.
The chunky case is in very good condition.
Dial and hands are in super condition as well – all original.
The day and date disks on the bottom plate.
The day can be quick-set when reverse-turning the time. Forward, both day and date change at midnight.
The auto winder works in both directions!
The wheel train with the typical pin-pallet escape wheel.
All parts cleaned and ready for reassembly.
Let’s go to town on this one – epilame treatment all around!
The base movement is back together, and all the parts are properly lubricated. So let’s see what we can tickle our of this movement….
You can say that this is a high-end pin pallet movement! A little bit later, the amplitude settled at over 270 degrees, with a pretty straight beat rate line! I’d be happy to see this on any Swiss lever movement.
The bottom plate almost complete.
Now I put together the auto winder.
The watch is in almost pristine original condition, and there is only one way the value of it can go!
I am looking for a new main spring. Any idea how I could order this for my Cordura Seagull? Thanks Scott
You measure the old spring and buy a new one by size.
Best wishes,
Christian
Any information on what rubber gasket sizes are needed for the watch caseback and the crown?
Just measure and buy accordingly?
Hi Christian,
I have one of these that’s like new and I want to put it on the timegrapher. I see you’re using a lift angle of 52 above but I don’t see this movement in you lift angle chart. There’s a Baumgartner 1582 which you show has a LA of 45. So I guess this one is 52?
Thanks,
Marco
Hi Marco,
I’m afraid I have no idea – let me know if you find the lift angle anywhere.
Kind regards,
Christian
I just ordered one that works well. I never realized a watch like this exsisted. most Dive watches I’ve had all look the same. I did even have a Rolex Submariner which made me the laughing stock of my diving community when they told me to lock it up somewhere. This Cordura Gull is the big work watch Ive always hoped for.
I am looking for the second hand wheel parts and spring. Are they even available or fixable? I have 2 of the seagulls and both have the same problem.
Even though I am in the states, I fancy the idea of having someone knowledgeable service my Cordura. What would the cost be to replace the crystal and perhaps polish the case as the movement seems to be functioning well.
Someone knowledgeable to polish your case and change the crystal … How about some local watchmaker?
Hi Chistian – great job, have saved your details for your future full service work services. As i have managed to obtain one of these great movements, not as pristine, but great all the same. Could i kindly ask how the stem is removed ? which screw? so that i can clean the case, kind regards Paul (in UK).
Hi Paul,
I would only clean the outside of the case with the case closed. Too many things can go wrong pulling a winding stem.
Love it. Trying to buy one now but has it got anything to do with sicura/breathing factory? And what should I pay, ballpark from? To?.
Thanks
I have one that has never been worn. I bought it in 1975 and it came shipped in a container filled with water. I wish I could find this advertisement somewhere as the ad is what prompted me to buy it. I removed it from the water filled tube and just put it away with the original bill but It needs cleaning after 40 years as it runs and stops. I think I will buy one with a recently serviced movement and swap since I don’t want to get the case or bezel marked up in anyway from taking it in to a jeweler. I found another a few years back on Ebay that looks as perfect as mine, runs perfectly, but must have been restored as there are signs on the case where the tropic band attaches that it was electropolished and replated when compared to my original. My son has it in his collection and loves it!
Wow – that is pretty cool! Yes, best get another one to wear, and keep the original one as it is. I can service the watch without marking anything, if you would like to do that.
Thank you for your offer. Can you polish the hands and re-lume them as well as they do have some oxidation and are the only signs of age on the entire watch. My son’s must have been restored along with the rest of the watch as his hands are perfect.
Yes, I can polish and re-lume the hands as well.
How much will it cost me? Is there also anyway to reduce the yellow look of the date wheel or should I just chalk that up to patina? I had it out yesterday and wound it. To my surprise it’s still running this morning, however I’m pretty sure it’s only because it is laying flat and not being worn.
A full service as per my price list is £120 + parts, and polishing and re-luming the hands is another £10.
Nothing I can do about the yellow of the date wheel.
Sounds good. What is the process to follow to send it in to you?
Hello.
Any Source Of Where To Buy The Crystal For Replace The Old One?
Thanks!
Just use a Sternkreuz diver crystal.
You can book a slot for your watch at http://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/book.pl
Will do. See you in 13 days 🙂
I do have one, that Christian serviced for me a year or so ago! 🙂
Great watch, mine was the best condition one I’d seen until this one! 😉
Christian,
Thanks again for the great work! The watch arrived this afternoon and is already on my wrist. Aside from the sentimental value it obviously holds for me, I think it’s a great watch and certainly not one you do not see every day.
I do like this style of watch, though I don’t actually own one… yet 😉
It does look to be in great condition – testament to how well you need to seal a dive watch I suppose!
Does the inner number ring move also? If not, shouldn’t it be set with 24 at the top?
I reset the crystal afterwards, and forgot to take a photo… The triangle is now at the top 😉
Ah good – not the kind of thing you want to notice after it is already in the post across the pond 😉