Service: Movado Ermetoscope pocket watch

I was quite surprised when Mick brought this Movado in for a service – my dad used to have the same watch (I think he actually had a couple in succession), but none of them are left. I remember playing with it as a kid, and it’s great holding one of them in my hand again!

These are fairly rare beasts, and don’t come up too often.

The watch is wound through the opening and closing action of the case – it’s a rack and pinion construction like in a car steering. Each side of the case has a rack attached to it, which slides by one side of the winding stem. The crown has the pinion on it. Great stuff, almost an automatic (well it is if you want to know what time it is a couple of times a day).

You can see the two racks sticking out of the case halves. This watch has a lovely silver case, with a stainless steel spring riveted to the case back that holds the movement in the case halves.

Oh yes, this movement needs a service! Terrible amplitude …

A lovely little movement with Cote de Geneve decoration.

Nice perlage decoration on the bottom plate.

There is quite a bit of dirt, and that will be the reason for the poor amplitude.

This is a well executed movement – I like how the clutch lever is made. All solid stuff with nice finishes.

I remove the balance from the cock, so I can take the cap jewel off for cleaning.

Having cleaned, rinsed and dried all the parts, I put some breaking grease on the barrel wall and slide the new mainspring in.

The barrel and wheels go in.

The balance jewel caps get some Moebius 9010.

I can’t help but polish some damaged screw heads and the clutch lever.

Straight away, I get a decent amplitude.

Such a great little movement.

Into the silver case it goes.

Dial, hands and crystal back on.

With the case back on, we’re ready to put the watch back into the sliding case.

A great watch, and quite unique. If you are collection watches, get one of these!

Case closed 😉


13 thoughts on “Service: Movado Ermetoscope pocket watch

  1. Wonderful job! It’s rare to find service experience for such a unique piece. But I wonder how to remove it from the case? It’s quite interesting. I’d like to buy one and also I’d like to detach it and clean it and then assemble it again. That’s fun. Of course not intend to oil the movement. That’s professional job.:)

  2. I have a Movado Ermeto. The back is a spring with 2 rivets. How do I get the back off to inspect the movement. I don’t want tl do any damage

  3. I have a Movado Ermeto purse watch after a few years of seeking just the right one. Silver hallmarked cased in mock-croc leather cover import marks for 1928. I love it. The more I use and wind it, the better it handles. I tend to hold the watch securely in my palm when closing (using the closing of the palm), rather than grasping each side and pushing it back together, which can get a little wiggly when closing. I open and close about 8-10 times a day, and keeping it running seems to make it work more smoothly.
    It doesn’t shout, just whispers ‘class’.

  4. Hola: Tengo un reloj movado ermeto de 1930 la caja es de niquel y cromo. Todo está bien y funcionando pero le hace falta la tapa final trasera, la que tiene unas pestañitas. En concreto la que usted muestra en la fotografia 2.

    He pensado que quizás pudiera informarme acerca de como conseguirla. Gracias y un saludo

  5. I have two Movado Ermeto purse watches – one bigger than the other with a folding prop at the back.
    How much winding (opening and closing) do they need? I’m worried about over winding or is there a safety mechanism built in?

    • Don’t worry – you can’t overwind the watch. Opening it 6 to 10 times a day should provide enough winding.
      My father had several of these over the years, before he got himself a Rolex.

  6. I bought a Movado Ermeto 2 years ago second-hand for £55 it has kept good time up til now and is in the jewellers awaiting a new balance, will this be a very expensive repair, I am waiting for an estimate from them.

  7. What a fantastic tutorial! Wonderful photos, too. I have one of these and it runs great and keeps very accurate time. However, I find that it is very difficult to wind. That is, the rack and pinion seems to be too tight. I see no wear or damage, nor any corrosion. Should racks be lubricated? If so, with what?

    • You will probably have to clean the whole winding assembly first. I use a light grease such as KT22 on the racks – only on the sides, not on the gears.


  8. Pingback: Teardown + Service: Movado Ermetoscope

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