Yes, everyone wants one of these. The Moonwatch.
Chris (our normally Rado Chris) is the lucky guy, and he got it from a chap in Japan at a good price. All it needs is a service, and that’s what I’m going to do.
The balance has a very low amplitude, and something is wrong with the hairspring.
First look at the Omega 1141 movement. The base movement is the ETA2890A2, and you can still see that on the plate next to the balance.
The auto winder bridge removed.
I correct the hairpspring problem, and that already looks better, but the movement definitely needs a service.
The chronograph module. Movement and chronograph module can be easily separated, and I like that.
I start off with the movement.Enough old dirt and grease here.
The usual dirt and old grease in the mainspring barrel as well.
Having removed the top plate of the chronograph, you can get an eyeful of the mechanism. There are two unusual things about the 1141: Firstly, as I already mentioned, the movement and chronograph module can be easily separated, and secondly, the minute and hour counters work continually, e.g. they don’t jump every minute by one, or every 30 minutes by one, but move continually, which is quite a nice feature. The operation of the chronograph is very smooth as well.
Some solidified grease, but not too much dirt.
Bit by bit, I take the chronograph apart.
These three screws are used to fix the chronograph to the base movement.
And now I can take apart the rest of the movement.
Have a look at the amount of parts going into the cleaning machine …
I start off with a new mainspring.
The barrel bridge put together.
The bottom plate done. You can see two wheels in the middle. The bigger wheel transmits the power for the hour and minute hand, and the small wheel in the middle transmits the power for the chronograph and small second hand.
The wheel train put back together.
Once the movement is back together, I start on the chronograph. This is a slow process, and I meticulously follow the step-by-step instructions in the manual, which show every part and the lubrication that has to be applied.
Slowly but surely, I am getting somewhere.
After a couple of hours, I am ready to put the cover plate on.
Now I adjust the movement and put it on the chronograph module.
Proof is in the pudding. With the chronograph module mounted, you want to see a beat rate that is as constant as without the module., which shows you that everything is put together and lubricated correctly. 1141s that need servicing will show meandering or jumping lines.Ready for the dial.
I just love this dial. Super slick, no fuss, no frills.
I case the movement without the auto winder.
And then put the auto winder on.
What a beauty. If I could afford one, I’d have one as well! The bracelet goes back on, and I’m done.
Hi Christian
I hope my message reaches you would love your opinion.
I recently bought a speedmaster reduced with the cal.1140. when the watch arrived everything worked as it should, I tested the chronograph for a few days everything worked correctly. Suddenly on reset the hand didn’t rest fully back to zero and was instead a little to the left. I tried again and again until the hand was loose and eventually fell off. I assumed this means the hand tube is loose and an easy fix. I tried tightening the hand and it worked for maybe three resets before being misaligned again. Tried tightening them again with no luck this time. I contacted the seller who spoke to his watch maker, I asked if I should get new hands. The seller insisted that his watch maker ran into the same issue and it is not the hands but the chronograph module. He highlighted the issue is with the pin the hand sat on. Is this viable as I haven’t heard much about this but a lot of cases where the hands just needed tightening.
thank you for your consideration.
My money is on either a split or loose tube.
Hi! After servicing my Omega 1141, I can’t get the chrono hands to zero on reset. I’ve tried adjusting the gaps in the hammer but it’s driving me crazy. When I assemble the DD module (after adjusting the hammer gaps), the chrono hands have 5 -10 seconds of movement when reset and don’t return to the same position. Any ideas?
You can download the technical instructions from https://watchguy.co.uk/technical/Omega/ and adjust the Hammer as described.
Actually, I was able to get the adjustment correct. With the chrono reset, I turned the eccentric until two of the chrono hands were securely homed. it was no longer in the orientation shown in the manual. Then I started the chrono which moved the hammer away from the chrono counter wheels. the minute counter was the one that still wasn’t homing with the hammer. using a screwdriver, I opened-up the gap in the hammer for this counter wheel. I slowly adjusted the gap for the minute counter until all three counter wheels were in contact when reset. I’m sure that you already know this but perhaps someone will find it helpful.
sincerely,
Glad to hear that you got it sorted.
Best regards,
Christian
I still can’t get the reset goes to zero. It’s driving me crazy that the previous guy doing things that made the eccentric screw broken. And the jewel on the chrono second hand also lost. I thought it was the hand bushing that was lose so I tighten it, still the same problem occurring. Does the support jewel really important for the chronograph second hand wheel to reset to zero?
You need to find that jewel on your floor 😉
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is it better to leave the chronograph running on cal 1141 (clutch wear)? thanks!
I have yet to see a worn clutch… I’d say it doesn’t really matter.
interesting. but in a vertical clutch, the clutch is engaged when the chrono is stopped?
The friction clutch is disengaged when the chrono is stopped, but as it’s a friction clutch, there is a bit of friction 😉
This isn’t going to wear out your watch.
hmm. 😀
i’d love to learn more about this thing on my wrist! it is nice to be ignorant and think there is some sort of magic occurring– but where would be a good place to start learning how this watch works?
thank you for taking the time out to respond to my questions, i know you are very busy!
http://watchguy.co.uk/technical/Omega/1140.pdf
Great read. I am getting the exact same watch (circa 1995) serviced by a watchmaker I haven’t tried before– little nerve racking! Great to see the DD module.
The dial on mine has aged similarly to the one you worked on here, although mine has faded to a dark gray with deep yellow indices and the lume on the hands are almost black/dark yellow.
Do you think the one you worked on here had its hands replaced at some point?
Thanks again
I don’t think so, but I am of course not entirely sure.
Thanks. Have you noticed that these speedys have gone up in value in the last 5 years?
this movement 1141 do i need to worry about over winding it?
No
Christian,
Nice to see someone showing some details on these DD modules i have been looking all over for a manual on LWO-238 i have one i would like to give it a shot on but would be great if i had a manual like you to get the job done correctly. Im sure you are very busy but if you might have a chance and or time to sell me a copy of this module or 1140 i would really appreciate it very much.
Best regards
Chris
You can find the information you want at http://watchguy.co.uk/technical/
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Hello Christian,
I just purchased a used Speedmaster Reduced 3510.50 with the 1143 movement. Is there a “best practice” for protecting the chronometer mechanism? I’ve been told some older auto chronos can be somewhat fragile, but know nothing about the Dubois-Debrois movement. Also, any significant differences between the 1143 and 3220 calibers? Thanks, and awesome post!
Dean
Not really – use it as you wish. There is nothing you can do to make it last longer between services, and I’m no friend of auto winders.
What do you think is wrong with them?
Do you keep your car engine running when you aren’t using your car? 🙂
I don’t know about your car but mine does not need a new tank of gas and a wheel alignment everytime I start it 😉
Thanks Christian,
db
I bought a swing ETA 2892-2 Chronometro degree, operation of 1143 may be reasonable? or do you think that the march had been in good, for regulation, can be very bad gait
Pesky Google translate! 😉
Ricardo: it might be best to post in your native language, and we’ll take it from there.
Certo, como não achei o balanço com espiral para movimento 2890-a2 ( so na autorizada omega ,e eles não trocam so o balanço mas tambem pulsadores,acrilico,juntas,polimento,e ai fica caro pra mim ) acabei comprando um balanço ETA 2892-2 grau crhonometro ,minha pergunta : com uma boa regulagem o espeed vai manter uma marcha boa ,o terei que colocar o original omega para 1143 calibre ?para ele funcionar corretamente ,
Ricardo
Yes, you will get good performance out of the ETA balance. The Omega balance is made to a higher grade specification than the one of the standard ETA movement, but performance will be very good.
se eu quiser enviar para você fazer um serviço no meu Omega 1143 ,como devo agir ? e poderia me disser o valor de um serviço como este que foi feito no 1141?.
A service for either 1141 or 1143 is £240 + parts. If you want me to service the watch for you, I’m afraid you have to book a service slot at http://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/book.pl
Once that’s done, you will get an email with further instructions and my address.
hi, I have a 1143 and need to balance with spiral. the off ETA 2892-2 will be compatible?
The balance with hairspring from the ETA will fit, but it’s not the same used by Omega, as they use a higher grade movement than the standard ETA.
sou um fa do senhor ,poderia me disser por favor qual a ´presição deste movimento e a reserva de marcha ?
You can look up information like the power reserve on ranfft.de
Great watch and a great watch maker .
I have the NOS bits for making up a reduced ( Movement ( 1140 , dial ( mine is white ) pointers , bracelet etc ; but I need a really good case and bezel ) ; any ideas please .
Any comments on the difference between 1141 and mine 1140 and any comments on the white dial please .
From one watchmaker to another can I ask where you got ahold of a step by step instruction manual for the movt? I just serviced a Tag with a 2892 with DD chrono module and it took me a while to get it back together. It would have been alot easier with a manual lol. Thanks
Hi Mike,
I downloaded the pdf from cousinsuk.com – you have to search a bit to get to the right base calibre, but I’m sure you are familiar with that.
Best regards,
Christian
Absolutely stunning. I have a confession. The “dark side of the moon” edition they launched recently is seriously tempting. But I’m not a huge chronograph fan. If I had to choose it would be a speedy pro or a zenith striking 10th.
A man can (and should) dream.
Yes, the Zenith is just stunning. Just watching a YouTube video of the watch makes you want to have one.
A great idea, and one of the best chronograph movements.
I’ve no doubt we’ve been watching the same video. 🙂
Very nice design! But I much prefer those vintage versions, which has the Lemania 2310 movement. They are the true moon watch.
The original Moonwatch is a thing of beauty, and probably the more desirable version.
What I like about the 1141 is the performance of the movement, and the precision with which the movement is made.
Maybe Omega should make a vintage version with the original movement.
Technology is about evolution, and with time, a manufacturer should strive to make better and better movements. That’s what Omega does.
No doubt this 1141 movement has excellent performance.
I have a Speedmaster with Lemania 1873 movement and a vintage one with Lemania 2310 movement.
In terms of accuracy, the newer one with 1873 movement is better. However, the column wheel design on 2310 gives me a smoother feel for the chrono functions compared to the shutter/cam design. And I think the accuracy difference is not that much related to the movement design.
I believe the evolution of technology does bring benefits to movement design, but it appears to me that sometimes they are more related to reducing cost.
What a superb piece of craftsmanship…… and the Omega is good as well.
As a collector of old Tissot watches, I cannot aspire to the dizzy heights of such a work of art, but could you give me an indication of the price one would pay for a watch in similar condition ???
(Thank you Christian, a wonderful strip and rebuild..)
You will have to fork out close to £1500 for one in decent condition…
Oooooh can’t wait to get it back! 🙂
Excellent work and super fast turnaround as always! Many thanx!!
It certainly is a classic design… often copied, but rarely bettered or equalled I feel 😉