Let’s see what’s happening…
I slowly work my way through the chronograph layer.
The left handed screw for the lever that holds the wheel that advances the minute counter turns without coming loose – looks like somebody tried to unscrew it, didn’t notice that it was left hand, and broke the thread. As it’s it’s holding well enough, I will leave it in place, as I would otherwise have to replace the screw and bridge, and I can’t get hold of either one.
All the parts in the cleaning baskets, and no lack of them! The mainspring still looks pretty spritely, and I will leave it.
When servicing chronographs, I always put together the base movement first, and check if everything is well. There is no use assembling the chronograph layer if the movement isn’t performing as it should.
Now that’s what I call good! Great amplitude, beat error and beat rate. I couldn’t be more happy with that.
Now the arduous part begins – putting the chronograph layer back together. Here, I’m putting a bit of Moebius grease on.
The top plate is back together, and the chronograph is working. I adjust the depthing as the last thing once the movement is cased.
Now it’s time for the bottom plate and date ring. The mechanism that changes the date is quite unique, with an eccentric little spring lever that only moves the date ring every couple of turns. It has to be put in in the right position, or it won’t change the date.
Unfortunately, the tube of the second hand has come off.
I rivet the hand in the staking set, but, when testing, it still can turn slightly against the tube. The forces of the reset are very strong, and the hand has to be fit properly against the tube.
So I get my soldering iron out, and solder the tube from the back side. You don’t solder under the microscope every day, but all goes well.
The hands go back on, and the movement is ready for casing.
A nice chronograph with a clean design. I like it!