Maybe it’s Google’s search algorithm, or it’s just a coincidence: Two Omega calibre 601 in a row, and both from Sweden! This one belongs to Pär, and the case looks quite different, but it’s the same movement.
The watch doesn’t work at all, and you can wind it forever. Looks like the mainspring is broken.
This 601 is in super shape – no rust, no huge amounts of dirt, no dissolved gasket.
Yep, it’s the mainspring.
All aboard the cleaning train.
The new mainspring gets a bit of grease.
The barrel bridge assembled.
What a beauty!
And a beautiful performance on top of the looks.
Great looking dial in great shape!
With a new crystal, and the case cleaned, this is a beauty.
i have an omega 600 circa 1969 sticks at the half hour
could you tell me problem and cost of repair andrew
That made me laugh 😉 I have no idea what’s wrong with it, but I’m sure I can fix it. Check my price list for the cost.
Hi Christian, I have a little dude about the case, is a 135.011 ? I have the same problem with case clamp, like Adrian. All seamaster 600 I’ve seen on the web has the enlargament ring.
Regards.
I don’t remember the case reference number. I’m sure there are 600s out there that have a case ring – it app depends on the case.
Thank you very much for the reply, Christian. Fantastic blog.
Regards.
Hi Christian, Nice write up on the Seamaster 600. I recently acquired one and was wondering how to replace the crystal. Can this be done using a crystal lift? Thanks / Mario
Hi Mario,
These cases have tension ring crystals, which are removed and put in using a crystal press. You can’t use a crystal lift on them.
Christian, Thanks for the reply. One thing about being a watch repair newbie you got your suspicion just need confirmation from an expert. This will be my first try in movement / crystal removal and replacement. Looks simple enough looking at your other repair posting. Wish me luck. – Mario
Hy Cristian ,i like your post,you make a great job,i want to know the price of the new main spring at cal. 600.
Sorry, but I don’t deal in parts.
Hi Christian,
I have followed your advice for removing stem and everything went just fine. Thanks a lot, you are the best!
Thanks Christian for the great post!
I have exactly the same Seamaster 600 as the one you have serviced. On your pictures I didn’t notice the retain ring for the movement, just two small clasps which fix the movement to the case. The same is with my Seamaster 600. Does this model should have factory-installed retain ring for the movement? I’m asking this, because I had small problems with fixing the movement to the case, so that the movement stands firmly: I succeeded this only after bending slightly those two clasps.
Thanks in advance for your reply!
Hi Adrian,
there is no case ring – the two case clamps hold the movement in place, and they should not require bending, but should slide into their slot in the case easily. Tightening their screws will then fix the movement firmly into place.
Thanks a lot for your reply Christian!
I have easily slid clamps into slots in the case and tightened their screws, but the movement didn’t stand firmly. Inspecting the clamps with magnifier I have noticed that there is some small space between clamps and upper side of their slots (the side of the slot toward the case back). In order to eliminate this space I have tried to bend clamps in the direction of case back (with two pliers and of course when clamps were not screwed on). Only after this everything was OK.
The clamps look the same as those on your pictures (with small bend in the middle), and are made from good steel (it was hard to bend them slightly), so I suppose that they are original.
Is, perhaps, cause of this problem the guy who owned this watch before me and who messed something up?
Have I done something wrong with my intervention?
No, that sounds right. The clamps have to sit firmly, and you have achieved that by bending them slightly.
Thanks a lot for your reply Christian. After resolving this problem with your help, I would like to clean a little bit the dial and inside of the case. Can you tell me please how I can pull out the movement from case? In order to do this, do I need to pull out the stem? I didn’t notice any screw which holds stem in place…
Hi Adrian,
if you look at http://watchguy.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/IMG_6287.jpg, you can see a little round thing next to the serial number, at the end of it. If you press that down gently, this is the set lever, and you can pull out the crown whilst pressing it down.
To put the winding stem back in, also gently press down the set lever, and you can slide it into position.
These vintage Seamaster’s are a work of art. Something that Omega appear to have lost in their current range of watches.
My Father owns a Seamaster Deville fitted with the 610 calibre, which he purchased when on active service with the RAF in Aden in ’67; this goes with the stereotype that RAF personnel favoured Omega.
PS: found an Omega UK catalogue from ’64/65 with prices in pounds, shillings and pence. Link is here http://www.old-omegas.com/catuk64.html
So an Omega Seamaster Deville with date in stainless steel with leather strap cost £39, 10 Shillings around 1965. This is approximately £600 in today’s terms: a fair price!
You could expect to pay £600 for a good second hand model, same as the cost of a new watch from an Omega dealer in 1964-65. Not so now, with the over-inflated, corporate-greed controlled retail prices! An entry level Deville is £2390.
Thanks Christian for a great job and an very facinating blog.
I might ask you to take a look at my grandfathers old Tissot when the christmas and new year has passed.