Anders has sent in this beast of chronographs. Minute recorder, hour recorder, day, date, month and moon face all packed into a 34.5mm 18K case. Seven hands in total or in this case 6 and a half. Plenty of warning signs as the date and month disks are seized and the reset pusher does not move.
First impression of the movement is positive, but it’s the dial side I’m worried about.Here is a close up of the central chronograph second hand.The long second hand tube is already a challenge, as they are next to impossible to get a hold of.I like the UG logo in the case back.I hold my breath removing the hands, as I don’t want to damaged the dial.Ouch! No wonder the reset lever does not move.A little close up of the rust damage.I start dismantling the movement.The rust is very local and everything else is looking very good.The triple date plate removed revealing the setting mechanism.I turn the movement around and start taking the chronograph apart.There is plenty of dirt all over the place.I take apart the non-shock protected balance cock.Almost down to the base movement.I turn the movement around again and remove the intermediate hour recorder wheel. This is important before taking the train bridge off as it is screwed into the train bridge. I’m now able to separate the base movement.The quick set pushers for date, moon-face and month.I get a pleasant surprise when the hour reset lever screw unscrews without a fight.The movement is so dirty that the gear train is glued into the jewels.Old mainspring.All the parts cleaned and I use several boxes to have any chance of getting the parts back in the correct order.No way we can use the old hour recorder or the plate for the triple date mechanism.Anders does not shy away from a challenge and after a lot of effort is able to source the correct parts and I build up my confidence to start putting this beast back together.I start by putting together the balance and seeing that it moves freely.I replace the old mainspring with a new one.I put the crown wheel back in place on the underside of the train bridge.Here the gear train is ready for the train bridge.Gear train back in place and moving freely as it should.I now put the setting mechanism back in place.I wind the movement fully and as soon as the balance goes back into place it springs to life.So far I’m happy with the performance.Some of the new parts are from the newer calibre 481 and this setting lever spring needs a pin removed so that the date mechanism plate can fit.I can now proceed putting the watch together.I start by putting the hour recorder together.The new reset lever for the hour recorder moves freely.The movement is being put together one spring at a time.The hour recorder wheel is held down with a funky spring.The case has two slots so that the dial screws can be accessed while the movement is in the case. This makes it possible to test the quick set for date and moon phase and change the month.The dial side is put together, and everything seems to work, as it should.I turn the movement around and fix the case to the movement holder so I can start putting the chronograph back together.The parts are coming together one after another.Finely I have a working chronograph.Amazing how many parts one can fit in to a 34.5mm case.Dial back in place.For the central chronograph second hand I remove the tube from the rusted hand and solder it on to a new hand.All the hands are in place and resetting, as they should!I must say this is a beautifully constructed movement; with the exception of the setting lever spring every spring is properly machined out of steel.
Bonjour
J’ai le même calibre monté sur une uni compax
Est-ce que c’est modifiable ?
Great job, congrats! I have one UG with cal 481 and the moon phase disc is running only when I use the pusher, it doesn’t work when the watch is running. Any suggestions about what’s wrong with it? Thanks!
Hallo, ein sehr schöne Darstellung, sitzt zwischen den Schnellverstellern im Uhrwerk für Mondohase, Datum und Tag und dem Drücker, der im Gehäuse sitzt, noch ein weiteres Teil? bei meiner UG Tricompax reicht der im Gehäuse liegende Drücker nicht bis an den Versteller, der im Werk sitzt, heran. Im Gehäuse ist ja ein kleiner Führungszylinder angebracht, auf Ihrem Foto sieht es so aus, als reiche der Führungszylinder weiter hinein.
Ich hoffe, ich habe mich klar genug ausgedrückt und danke für Ihre Antwort.
Beste Grüße
Claus E
Ja, da gibt es ein Zwischenstück. Ich habe eins am Lager glaube ich.
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Very interesting overview of the repair. I havea Universal Geneve Polerouter Super in need of repair. Any suggestions as to where to have work done in the US would be greatly appreciated.
Hello,
very nice work! I need help. I am searching for the winding pinion for a Universal Geneve Cal 481. Can you help me to find that part?
Thanks!
We do not have that part, but I would recommend ebay:)
Amazing. I have two tri compaxs, a SS 22279 and a YG 12551 and this video is amazing
hello anders,
just a question on compatibility of parts. are ug 281 parts compatible with 481?
Hi there…Brilliant Job by the way,congratulations…Perhaps you can help me to find this piece for Universal Tri Compax Caliber 481…Thanks
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REPUESTO-REPLACEMENT-PART-ORIGINAL-UNIVERSAL-GENEVE-CAL-285-REF-8080-TRICOMPAX-/231822391442?hash=item35f9b0f892:g:ulMAAOSwLnlWokTX
You have found it right there on ebay. I don’t have one, and you won’t find it cheaper.
Christian, great piece of work dismantling and repairing the cal 481… I have a Swiss Dreffa valjoux 88, triple date, moonphase chronograph, which is keeping excellent time, but the hands clash around 11 which stops the watch, would you be able to sort c/w service, noting that I would be a new customer.
Malcolm binns
Sure, grab a slot from our booking page on 2/1/2016, and we can take it from there.
really nice docu on a job well done!
May I ask 1 question? How do you guys approach the soldering of the tube on the chronohand?
I’m afraid I will have to attempt something similar. So if you could share info on this (type of solder, kind of soldering iron,…) that would be really great!
A soldering iron used for electronics (it’s a soldering station), a very very tiny amount of flux, and an even tinier amount of electronic solder. We cut the tiniest bit off with a sharp knife, and half that again, until we have a super small amount. Then heat up the hand with the solder and flux in place.
thanks, will give it a try!
What a beautiful watch
What a great job and a lovely looking watch! Much nicer too than the majority of new ones in my opinion.
I think we can safely say that Mitka has passed his apprenticeship with this piece! Great work, and a lovely watch. This one took a lot of perseverance, and Mitka didn’t let go.
Couldn’t believe that can be fixed at all !! Thumb up …
Great job, a beautiful piece.
Thanks Mitka for a great job well executed!
It’s been a pleasure as always to follow the progress of your work.
I am extremely happy to see the end result.
How the corrosion got to just the few parts influenced I guess we will never know, but I have noticed that the parts are close to the crown and pushers, so most likely a drop of something has entered.
Can’t wait to get it on my wrist for some, very careful, wrist time!:-)
That’s a lovely watch Anders, can I ask what kind of value they are, I’d love to get one.
Thanks
Alex
Hi Alex.
These come in several flavors and prices.
UG Tri-Compaxes in proper original condition seems to range from about GBP3-4000 and up.
I suggest to have a look at eBay and other online market places. A good idea is to ask for advice and guidance in the Universal Geneve section of omegaforums.net.
🙂
Brilliant job, as always! Any theories on the odd pattern of rust? That setting lever and second hand look like some cars I’ve seen that drive on salt treated roads in winter!
Cheers!